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Basic Sewing Techniques Every Beginner Should Know

  Felt-afikomen-bag-DIY

Right about now, as Passover approaches, you might be thinking you wish you knew how to quickly whip up an afikomen bag, check out mine here, or pillow covers for the seder, or maybe some new curtains, or a special tablecloth? While there is likely not time to delve into learning to sew items for this year’s Passover celebration, why not make it a goal to learn about sewing during the coming year, so that next year you truly will be able to whip up all the items of your dreams?

Sewing is not only a fun and fantastic hobby but a great way to save money and make your own home decor items and simple clothing.  When you know how to sew, you are also able to repair and improve the longevity and functionality of your existing clothes, and you are even able to make your own out of sustainable materials, if that is important to you. Sewing, does take time and patience to master, while basic items like hems and duvet covers are really quite simple.

Before you get started on your sewing journey, it pays to learn some basic terms and techniques, so keep on reading and good luck…..just think of this time next year…ahh, gorgeous pillow covers, new curtains, a creative new tablecloth, wow!

Felling

Felling is a sewing technique that is performed by hand, as well as on a sewing machine. When you are felling, you go back on yourself a fraction of an inch every time you thread the needle through the fabric. This allows you to create a tight stitch. You want to go in diagonally and emerge just after the end of the previous stitch, dependent upon how tight you want the stitch to be. Felling is usually performed on the inside of jackets or when you are sewing a lining onto the interior of a coat or pair of trousers.

A felled seam, or flat-fell seam, is a seam made by placing one edge inside a folded edge of fabric, then stitching the fold down. The fold encases the raw edges and protects them from fraying. The fold may be secured with a top stitch or a whip stitch. It is useful for keeping seam allowances flat and covering raw edges. The flat-felled seam is the type of seam used in making denim jeans, although it appears inside-out to reduce stitching. A flat-felled seam can be used on various fabrics in addition to denim, and can even be used on delicate fabrics such as voile.

Zigzag Stitch

Zigzag stitches are great when sewing on a machine. They can be performed by hand, though this generally takes quite a long time and is usually only performed by master tailors and seamstresses in tailoring and bespoke houses. Zigzag stitches can be performed on a sewing machine for quilting – or any sewing machine. They are also, as you have surely just guessed, used for quilting. Zigzag stitches are something that you should learn if you are interested in sewing clothing as this stitch is often used to keep fabric from unraveling, in place of a serger machine, or for areas that need extra reinforcement.

Applique

Applique is a technique you will want to learn if you have a creative eye and want to make cute, artful or custom items. The applique technique is when you sew a smaller piece of fabric onto another larger piece of fabric, which creates a pattern, decoration, or design. Applique is often done by machine, but it can be done by hand. If you are doing it by hand, it is often desirable to make the stitches part of the design, using thread in a contrasting color, and a stitch that also makes a statement.

Under-stitching

Under stitching is a line of stitches that are sewn close to the edge of a facing to keep it from rolling toward the outside. It keeps the facing or lining firmly on the inside of the garment without any stitches showing on the outside. Under stitching comes in handy especially when sewing around a neckline, for example in a woman’s dress or shirt.

Under-stitching does require patience and accuracy, so do approach it with patience and allow extra time. As with all sewing, the wonderful part about machine sewing is that mistakes can generally be fixed by undoing the stitches with a seam ripper, the tiny tool in the photo below. Don’t ever cut off excess fabric until you are certain that the results are to your liking.

Sewing-scissors

Zipper Sewing

Sewing a zipper to an item of clothing is often a newbie’s worst fear. Not to worry though, it is rather simple once you know what you are doing.  Zipper sewing is best done by machine, as it offers you the opportunity for preciseness, and sturdiness. Zipper sewing is something you will need to learn if you intend on becoming a sewing expert. Practice on something like a cosmetic bag, and once you have that down, then try to add a zipper to pants. Practice on something unimportant, or even on an old piece of clothing, so there will be no pressure!

Sewing Tools

In addition to a sewing machine, bobbins and needles, there are a few basic sewing tools that everyone needs. They are for starters, a soft tape measure, scissors (in several sizes), a seam ripper, dressmakers chalk and pins. Large scissors for cutting fabric are quite important, so invest in something that will serve you well. Pins with colored heads and a magnetic pin catcher are also convenient and useful.

Holding the Needle and Needle Types

Just a word of advise; if you are intending on sewing by hand, it is important that you hold your needle properly.  While we all develop our own techniques and habits over time, it is advisable to learn how to hold a needle the right way from the start.

Regarding needles in general did you know that there are needle types for every kind of sewing, and with machines, for every kind of fabric? Be sure to ask the experts at the sewing store which needle is advisable for your project, as this makes a huge difference.

Okay, that is it for this basic introduction to some sewing terms that will be useful in your journey, and remember, this time next year you will be a sewer, right?